They may have left five centuries ago, but the legacy of the Moors lives on in modern Spain.

The influence of Al-Andalus, as the civilisation was called, is discernible not just in the most important cities of their reign, but in the irrigation channels that cross the countryside, in the terraces carved into the hillsides, where vines and olives grow, and in the use of ceramics to decorate everything from doorways to domes.

Chefs are now reviving long-forgotten recipes, and dishes flavoured with honey, cinnamon and almonds are becoming popular.

While Cordoba was the first of the great Moorish cities in Spain, the Moors' 800-year presence left its mark extensively across the country.

Seville 's main Moorish monuments date back to the
11 th and 12 th centuries, during the Abbadid and Almohad Dynasties.

The Giralda tower, now part of the cathedral, was originally the minaret of the city 's main mosque, and was the model for minarets in Rabat and Marrakesh. The Alc ?zar complex was an enormous citadel, sprawling down to the Guadalquivir river, where the
13 th -century watchtower Torre del Oro still stands. Rebuilt over the centuries, the Alc ?zar was turned into a palace by Christian rulers, but the intricate geometric decoration and ornate gardens speak its origins.

Granada was the base of the Nasrids, the last Moorish dynasty in Spain, who emerged in the 13 th century in Ja ?n (where you can visit the restored Arab Baths), and went on to rule in Almer?a and Malaga, where their fortresses still loom over the cities.

Granada itself is, of course, dominated by the vast complex of the Alhambra, where the palaces, fortress and gardens form one of the best examples of Islamic architecture and craftsmanship in the world. The fountain of the lions has just been removed for restoration, a process that will take two years.

On the opposite hill, the Albaic in quarter, with its cobbled lanes, arches, towers and walled gardens, gives an idea of how the Moors lived. A new mosque, opened in 2003, serves a growing Muslim community.

Zaragoza, in the Arag on region in north-east Spain, was the capital of the northern part of Al-Andalus. While nothing like as well known, the stunning Palacio de la Aljafer ?a is also one of the most important structures from that period, influencing both the Alhambra and the Reales Alc?zares. Built in the 11th century, it was extended and embellished by Christian rulers.

Moorish Architects and Craftsmen continued to work for the new rulers, developing a style known as Mud ?jar, characterised by the geometric arrangement of bricks, using glazed tiles for decoration. The style can still be seen on many belltowers in Zaragoza and other towns in Arag on, particularly Teruel to the south. The Mud ?jar architecture in Arag on has World Heritage status, owing to its influence on buildings in other countries, especially Tunisia.

Annie Bennett
Recommended reading

? Moorish Spain by Richard Fletcher (Weidenfeld & Nicholson). Lively account of how the Moors created the culture of Al-Andalus.

? The Alhambra by Robert Irwin. Brings the palace to life by helping you imagine it full of people living in it.

? Andalus: Unlocking the Secrets of Moorish Spain by Jason Webster. In the boisterous company of a Moroccan immigrant, Webster looks for less obvious Moorish influences on Spanish life.

? Andaluc?a by Michael Jacobs. An essential companion to travelling in Andalusia, which is packed with details that help to explain what the region is about.